Tanzania – Part 12: The Rim of the Crater

 

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Simba campground on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater.

It was already three in the afternoon when we began the two-hour drive to the Ngorongoro highlands. Leaving Oldupai, the road was flat, and the terrain was dry and barren. But soon we began climbing, and as we gained altitude, the landscape became green and almost lush with low vegetation. As the land came back to life, we began to see numerous Maasai settlements in the hills. Rob explained that when the Serengeti National Park was created, it was designated a wildlife protected area and the nomadic Maasai were not allowed to maintain villages within its boundaries. Many had resettled in the Ngorongoro Conservation area, and dozens of large Maasai settlements were visible from the road as it continued to rise up into the highlands. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 11: The Cradle of Mankind

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Monolith at Oldupai Gorge

Running Log, 1/2/11 — Rest!

On the morning of the second day of 2011 I woke up from a deep slumber that had been untroubled by either real or imaginary lions. We had stayed the night at the Lake Ndutu tented camp, in spacious structures that seemed more like small apartments than tents. In addition to a double bed, each of the twelve tents at the campground included a bathroom (with toilet) and seperate shower (operated by releasing water from a bucket). After our previous night at Dik Dik, the accommodations at Lake Nduto felt quite aristocratic. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 10: Endless Plains

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Running Log, 1/1/11 — 25 minutes in and around Lake Ndutu Tented Camp.

On the last day of 2010, after my final run of the year at the Dik Dik campground, I joined my family for an improvised New Year’s Eve feast prepared by Henry and assisted by Rob, who had squirreled away two bottles of wine among our basic provisions. There was an enclosed pavilion in the middle of the campground, and it was here, sitting at long metal tables fancied up with a simple paper tablecloth, that we dined and toasted the coming year. After our feast, and in spite of an unusually festive atmosphere in the camp, we made no attempt to stay up until midnight. Instead we retired early and fell asleep easily in spite of loud celebrations from a group of German campers nearby, who continued to laugh and sing their rollicking songs long into the night. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 9: Hippos, Elephants, and Eyes in the Dark

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Running Log, 12/31/10 — 24 minutes in and around Dik Dik Campground
(Completing the year-long project of running every calendar day in 2010) 

On the morning of December 31st 2010 I awoke from a heavy sleep and uneasy dreams to find myself safe inside a luxury tent. The pounding in my head from the previous evening’s entertainment had faded, and a sense of proportion had returned. It was still early and, for the moment, Mbuzi Mawe was quiet and peaceful as the sun came up on another perfect day in the Serengeti. Continue reading

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Ryan Hall isn’t worried about what you think

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“I reflect on these achievements not with pride, but with humility, for I know that I was only faithful to the gift I had been given.”
– Ryan Hall

Ryan Hall isn’t worried about what you think Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 8: Into the Serengeti

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“Parks Tanzania” by Bamse – Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons – https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Parks_Tanzania.svg#/media/File:Parks_Tanzania.svg

It was about 4:00 in the afternoon when we finally arrived at Klein’s Gate, the Northeast entrance to Serengeti National Park, one of the seven natural wonders of Africa and home to the largest terrestrial mammal migration on earth. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 7: Out of the Desert

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We finally left the camp at Lake Natron at about 11:00 on the morning of December 30th. Rob had wanted us to leave an hour earlier, and we had dutifully packed all our bags the previous evening for a quick departure. However, while loading those bags into the back of the Land Cruiser, Rob and Peter had noticed a problem with the latching mechanism on the rear door, and decided it needed fixing before the arduous driving ahead. Continue reading

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Momentum in Training

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Several years ago, I was working with a runner who had recently finished a very successful cross country season and who had ambitious goals for spring track. This girl was very dedicated and conscientious about her training. She had requested a detailed schedule for the winter months, and was following it diligently, even when the winter weather made that a challenge. But at some point, probably the middle of January, I found myself perplexed about what she and I perceived as a lack of progress. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 6: Lake Natron

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“Here it is the landscape rather than the animals that is the attraction – the area around the lake is dry, desolate and hauntingly beautiful.” (www.moivaro.com)

“The lake is 35 miles (56 km) long and 15 miles (24 km) wide and contains salt, soda, and magnesite deposits. The lake’s warm water is an ideal breeding ground for the Rift Valley flamingos.” (Encyclopedia Brittanica)

“Three-quarters of the world population of lesser flamingos live and nest in East Africa. All depend on Tanzania’s Lake Natron as a breeding site. Food is plentiful, nesting sites abound – and above all, the lake is isolated and undisturbed.” (www.rspb.com)


Running Log, 12/30/10 — 30 minutes in and around Lake Natron camp, including “hill repeats”

December 30th was our second full day of Safari and would be, in every sense, our longest. It would take us from the near lunar isolation of Lake Natron to a brazen island of Western luxury in the heart of the Serengeti. In between, we would traverse a stretch of road so uneven it would make our Land Cruiser buck like an enraged bull, with only our seat belts keeping us from repeatedly banging our heads on the roof of the truck. Continue reading

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Tanzania – Part 5: Water in a Dry Land

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Ol Doinyo Lengai

After breakfast at the campground, and after everything and everybody were packed back into the Land Rover, we left Tarangire and began to head North. Our destination for the day was Lake Natron, located along Tanzania’s border with Kenya. Continue reading

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